Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Christmas vacation in East II- Missing the Misti makes me Misty about Kolkata




Ganguram, Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy, Sen Mahasay, K.C. Das, Jadab Chandra Das, Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick, Gupta Brothers and Hindusthan Sweets these are certain names which can make you drool literally anytime despite the fact that majority of these BHADRALOK have gone to OPARLOK already but perfectly so as they are stalwarts of Kolkata HALWAIS carrying the Flag or say can of Bengali sweets high all across the world.

Established in 1885 Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick is a sweet shop Founded by Ganesh Chandra Mullick who began by making korapak sondesh, norompak sondesh and nolen gurer (jaggery) sondesh {if he comes in his own a true blooded Bengali can name more than twenty Sondesh and take up cudgels against uncouth Bangal(East Bengali) for calling his Malpua as Sondesh while a true blooded Dhakiaa(Dhaka resident) will never miss a chance to have his Pranhara(Life savior) as Sondesh is called locally in end we are all so much similar I remember having a dish quite different in taste but equally tasty as being called Madurai Jigar Thanda(cooler) in Coimbatore }.The legacy of Ganesh Chandra Mullick was carried forward by his brothers Shree Balaram Mullick and his son Radharaman Mullick. has become a throbbing venture of five generations.

The legendary sweets like sorrabri, sor bhaja, kachagolla, abarkhabo sandesh, mihidana, sitabhog, patisapta, lal misti doi, rossomalai , chanar payesh( I can always make a tongue twister out of these words for the kids but than by the time these touch tongue they melt…Ha! Ha!) are still prepared the same way it was used to be prepared a century ago Trademark Bengali utensils like lohar petano kadai and kather taroo are used to make sandesh. Using charcoal wherever required is used to make some rare delicacies to give that subtle flavour.(See the citiataion given to them)



Christmas Trip to East- Legend of Bon-Bibi in Sunderbans


large no of tributries meander towards Bay of Bengal


A fisherman Couple fishing, small boats are more ecofreindly (photo: taken from steamer boat)















I first came to know about Bon Bibi while reading Amitava Ghosh's ‘Hungry Tide’ these days my favorite author. In fact, Sunderbans unfolded before me because I read that book and strong urge took me to Kolkat and than Sunderbans this annual Christmas vacation with Seema and kids

Banbibi, Bandevi, Bandurga and Byaghradevi is a guardian deity of the forests worshipped by both the Hindu and the Muslim residents of the Sundarbans She is worshipped by the Maules(honey-collectors) and the Baules( woodcutters)


Thick mangroves(Photo: Taken at cement Jetty)
According to the legend, there was a Sufi fakir who lived in Medina. he had two children, Bon Bibi and a son Shah Jongoli. When they grew up, Achangel Gabriel, asked them to go on a divine mission to Sunderbans, in India. There they came across a demon, Raja Dokkhin Rai, who had this fondness for human flesh.


Temples dedicated to Bon bibi are sacttered throughout the land, Bonbibi although muslim character is always a form of Durga, Dokken rai is Tiger form.This photograph was tyaken at Forest checkpoints let me add here that government actively promotes the legend and all Forest resthouses have temples dedicated to Bon bibi


Once there were Moule Dhona who planned to go for an expedition with a fleet of seven boats to collect honey in a dense forest and he takes along a poor shepherd boy Dukhe, When the fleet reaches kingdom of Dakkhin Rai, Dhona forgot to give an offering to Dakkhin Rai. As a result, he is not able to collect any honey of wax for three days. On the third night, Dakkhin Ray appeared in dreams of Dhona and asked for the human sacrifice. After some arguments with Dakkhin Rai, greedy Dhona agreed to sacrifice Dukhe in exchange of honey and wax. So, after collecting enough wax and honey, he left Dukhe there and returned back to village. When Dukhe was about to be killed by Dakkhin Ray in the disguise of a tiger, he started chanting prayers invoking Banbibi. On hearing his chant, Banbibi came along with her brother Shah Jangali. and defeated Dakkhin Rai.
Sunset near Bangladesh border (Photo: As taken from our steamer)
Bon Bibi divided the forest into areas where people will live and where the tiger would live.the wild parts of the forest are the domain of Dokkhin Rai So powerful is this prohibition that villagers will not urinate, defecate or spit while collecting honey or firewood.

The Bon Bibi (lady of the forest) legend uses the power of folklore to draw a connection between human beings and the world of nature ,The story serves as a melting pot for different cultures Local 'jatra'-s travel from village to village enacting the story, all the year round.

JATRA in progress at resort where we stayed